A 9a David vs. Goliath Story|Matyas Luzan

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"Do what you like, do it now and with passion – fuck everything else!"

M. Luzan

If I were a sixteen moves sport route under such a dogged and sustained siege as this of Matyas Luzan from Romania I would either run and hide in the forest or surrender filled with meek adoration.

However, this is not just any route. We are talking about the legendary “Action Directe” in Frankenjura – the first recognized 9a line in the world climbed by Wolfgang Gülich in 1991. This piece of rock is still proudly standing on its place, doing anything but hiding. Seems like the only option left for our guy Matyas is to find his own way through it’s iconic limestone overhang.

His approach looks like one of those quest games where you examine unknown spaces, search for a hidden door or the proper tool in order to arrange a complicated puzzle that unlocks the gate to wonderful places of joy and satisfaction. Chatting with Matyas I realized how he understands his initiative perfectly and for almost three years he’s been walking the path to the big dream – climbing Action Directe. In a curious and intricate way, he is developing his ascent by watching videos, comparing pictures and beta schemes, training obsessively on his own AD replica, and even collecting weather data to build a chart in a search for the best conditions.

It’s a David vs. Goliath battle and our “Dave” will impress you with his extreme levels of dedication if you only do what I suggest and read the following interview.

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